Appliance Repair FAQs

This is normally due to wear and tear of your washing machine and in many front loaders you should have this problem looked at immediately (otherwise a minor repair can turn into a replacement washing machine). Noisy washing machines are usually caused by damage to the drum bearing due to wear and tear, overuse of detergent or constant overloading. This problem can be rectified at a reasonable cost generally if serviced so after the noise begins. This is a repair that requires mechanical know how and should be performed by an experienced technician… call us for a quick and easy diagnosis.

This is the most common problem with both top loading and front loading washing machines. It is normally due to a blockage caused by a foreign object lodged inside the drain pump. Many front loading washing machines and some top-loading washing machines have an access panel into the pump chamber in which you can check for these blockages and clean out an particles inside. PLEASE NOTE – if you locate this chamber and your machine has water inside, this water will come gushing out as soon as you open this chamber. Make sure you have your washing machine unplugged at the wall and you have read your brand and models instruction manual as to how this procedure is performed. Otherwise call MARC for a professional repair and guaranteed service.

This is normally due to the failure of your oven thermostat or your cooktops central control. Stove and oven repairs should be performed by a qualified and experienced repairer

Allow the oven to cool to a warm temperature, make sure you have disconnected power to your oven and with a hot soapy sponge or cloth wipe down the walls of your oven. Oven cleaner is not required and quite caustic – damaging the enamelled surface inside your oven.

There are several elements in a standard oven/grill combo and any one of these elements may have failed – you should call a professional repairer for this type of work

Conventional fridges and freezers run on mechanical type thermostats which regualetd temperature via gas filled capillary which expanded and contracted with the change in temperature. Sometimes these thermostats my be stuck in the on or off position.This is quite a simple repair which does however need an experienced technician to perform. In newer and electronically controlled fridges these same symptoms could be caused be various components and is definitely a far more complex problem which requires the knowledge and diagnostic material to fault find and repair. Call us for a reliable and guaranteed service

This is very normal. Most fridges and freezers run either refrigeration lines or electric heaters around the openings of the doors to stop any condensation forming… depending on the outside conditions and the running conditions of the refrigerator, this can be quite hot at times.

Nearly all fridges today are frost free. Frost free fridges and freezers generally have a vent from the freezer compartment to the fridge compartment where cold air is forced through the evaporator coils and into the fridge compartment. If any foreign object blocks this vent, there will not be enough cold air flowing into the fridge compartment to hold temperature. Generally if this occurs it is due to a problem with the refrigerators defrost cycle (a timed function in which a heater is activated to keep evaporators and vents clear of frost buildup)… This repair requires an experienced technician to diagnose and repair as there are several components in the fridges/freezers defrost cycle. You can however switch a fridge off generally for 24hours allowing for the excess frost to defrost which will allow the fridge to work again for a few days until you organise a repair with M.A.R.C. Please note that this is a temporary measure and should not be abused, as this problem increases running costs and can damage your compressor/motor, creating a much greater repair cost

Many fridges have drains to remove the moisture accumulated on the evaporator coils… some fridges you can see the drain inside the back of the fridge and using a soft wire you can unblock the mould which usually blocks the small drain hose. This water usually travels to a tray at the rear of the refrigerator and uses the heat from the compressor to evaporate. You can sometimes clear the drain from the rear of the fridge if you can see the drain hose.

The model number is usually on an identification sticker or plate in an accessible location. You generally do not need to remove any panels.

• Dishwashers: Open the door and check its top, left and right edges, or around the door seal and frame.
• Ovens: Open the door and look along the bottom of the opening, beside the door seal, or on either side of the frame.
• Washing machines: Check the inside of the door and around the door opening.
• Fridges: Look inside the fridge compartment on the left- or right-hand interior wall.

Photograph the entire label. Besides the model number, it may contain a serial number, Bosch E-Nr or Electrolux PNC that helps identify the correct appliance version and parts.

Tell us what the appliance does, what it should be doing and when the problem occurs. For example, “the dishwasher fills but does not wash” is more useful than “the dishwasher is broken”.

Include any error code, unusual noise, remaining water or change in heating. A photograph or short video can help demonstrate an intermittent fault.

Our fixed service fee covers attendance, diagnosis and repair labour. Replacement parts are quoted separately. If parts supplied by M.A.R.C. are required, return labour to fit those parts is included.

Contact our team for current service fees.

Replacement parts supplied by M.A.R.C. carry a two-year warranty. This applies to the supplied parts; it does not mean every component in the appliance is covered against future faults.

Keep your invoice and contact us if you believe a supplied part has developed a problem.

The decision depends on the fault, repair cost, parts availability and overall condition. A single failed component can be worth replacing even in an older appliance, while extensive damage or several existing problems may make replacement more practical.

Diagnosis gives you a clearer basis for comparing the repair with the cost of a suitable replacement.

Poor water circulation or spray pressure, and inadequate heating, are important causes of poor washing results. The dishwasher needs to spray water effectively and reach the appropriate temperature to remove grease and food.

Blocked or damaged spray arms, restricted water flow, a circulation-pump problem or a heating fault can affect performance. Check that the load is not preventing the arms from turning. If a previously reliable dishwasher consistently leaves dishes dirty, arrange professional diagnosis.

The tablet needs water to reach it and dissolve during the wash. A large plate or utensil can obstruct the dispenser, while blocked spray jets or poor circulation can prevent enough water reaching the detergent.

A heating problem can also affect detergent performance. Check that the dispenser is unobstructed and use the detergent and programme recommended for your model. Repeated undissolved tablets warrant investigation.

Drying depends on the programme, rinse aid and drying system. Plastic containers often retain more water than glass or crockery, so wet plastics alone do not necessarily indicate a fault.

However, if an entire load suddenly remains cold and wet, particularly alongside poor cleaning, the heating system may need checking. Confirm the rinse-aid level and programme settings before arranging service.

A removable film can come from detergent residue or mineral deposits. Detergent quantity, water-hardness settings and rinsing performance can all contribute.

Permanent cloudiness can be damage to the glass rather than a removable deposit. Check your model’s detergent and water-treatment instructions before adding cleaners or changing settings. Persistent residue alongside poor washing may indicate a circulation or heating problem.

An interrupted water supply, a closed tap or a restricted inlet hose can prevent filling. An inlet valve or water-protection-system fault can also stop water entering.

Check that the accessible supply tap is open and that the door closes properly. If the supply is available but the machine still will not fill, the inlet system needs professional checking.

A dishwasher may stop because it cannot fill, circulate, heat or drain the water as expected. A door-latch problem can also interrupt operation.

The stage at which it stops is useful: stopping before washing points to different checks from stopping with dirty water remaining at the end. Record the displayed code and whether water remains inside rather than repeatedly restarting the programme.

On applicable Bosch models, E15 means the water-protection system has detected water in the dishwasher’s base.

This identifies a protection condition, not the exact source of the water. A leak, overflow or another water-related problem needs to be investigated. Stop using the dishwasher and arrange an inspection rather than tilting it to clear the warning.

On applicable Miele dishwasher models, F11 indicates a drainage problem. Possible causes include a restricted drain path, an obstruction around the pump or non-return valve, or a pump fault.

The code does not automatically mean the pump needs replacing. Follow only the accessible cleaning checks described in your model’s manual. If water remains or the fault returns, arrange service.

On applicable Electrolux models, i20 indicates that the dishwasher has not drained as expected.

A blocked filter, restricted drain hose or connection, or a drainage-system fault can cause this. Check the user-accessible filter according to the manual. If the code returns after routine cleaning, the drainage system needs further investigation.

If one basket washes well and the other remains dirty, water may not be reaching that basket properly. A blocked or damaged spray arm, an obstructed arm or a problem with the basket’s water-feed connection can affect one area more than another.

Check the loading and make sure an adjustable basket is seated correctly. Persistent differences between baskets can help a technician identify a water-distribution problem.

A partly closed tap, low supply pressure or a restricted inlet hose can reduce water flow. A blocked inlet filter or faulty inlet valve can produce similar symptoms.

Check the accessible tap and look for a visibly kinked hose without moving the appliance. If other taps have normal pressure but the washing machine repeatedly fills slowly, its inlet system may need checking.

An unbalanced load can cause the machine to reduce or cancel the spin to protect itself. A single heavy item, such as a bathmat, can be difficult to balance.

Water that has not drained properly will also prevent an effective spin. Check whether water remains in the drum and whether a low spin speed was selected. Repeated problems with normal mixed loads may indicate a drainage, suspension or drive-system fault.

The displayed time is often an estimate. The machine may adjust it while balancing the load, filling, heating or dealing with excess foam.

Occasional changes can be normal. A cycle that repeatedly becomes much longer than usual can indicate slow filling, drainage trouble, excessive suds or a heating problem. Note which stage takes the extra time.

The door may stay locked while the drum is moving, the water is too hot or the water level is too high. Some machines also have a short release delay after the programme finishes.

If water remains inside, a drainage problem may be preventing release. Do not force the handle. If the cycle has ended and the door remains locked, follow your model’s instructions or arrange assistance.

Where and when the water appears can help identify the cause. Water near the door may involve the seal or trapped clothing. Water from the detergent drawer can relate to excessive foam or a blocked dispenser path.

Leaks underneath can come from hoses, pumps or other internal components. Stop using a leaking machine and tell us whether it leaks during filling, washing or draining.

Too much detergent, or detergent unsuitable for the machine, can create excessive suds. Residue from previous overdosing can also contribute.

Foam can interfere with washing, rinsing and spinning, and may escape through the dispenser. Use the detergent type and dose recommended for your machine, load and water conditions. If foaming continues despite correct dosing, further checks may be needed.

Product buildup can restrict the dispenser channels or the softener siphon. Weak water flow into the drawer can also prevent the product from being flushed through.

Clean the removable drawer and inserts according to your manual, and avoid filling above the marked maximum. If a clean drawer still does not empty correctly, the water supply to the dispenser may need checking.

A cool door or cool laundry at the end does not prove there is a heating fault. Programmes use different temperatures, and the final rinse may be cold.

If a suitable warm programme consistently washes poorly or a heating fault appears on the display, the heater, temperature sensing or associated controls may need testing. These checks require professional diagnosis.

Brief pauses can be part of normal operation. However, a drum that remains stationary throughout the wash is a different problem.

Depending on the model, possible causes include a drive-belt, motor or motor-control fault. Report whether the drum moves at any stage and whether you hear the motor trying to run. Do not continue restarting the machine if it hums without moving or produces a burning smell.

Yes. Intermittent faults can depend on temperature, vibration, programme stage or load size, so the appliance may not misbehave on every cycle.

Record the programme, load, elapsed time and any displayed message when it happens. A short video can be particularly useful for noises or display behaviour. These details help us reproduce the conditions and narrow down the cause.